PARIS: Dutch design duo Viktor and Rolf served up Hollywood in a mirror yesterday, with a cool cocktail of drapes and shimmer showcased midway through Paris Fashion Week.
Emerging from a hall of mirrors-like decor, their models stepped out in long fluid skirts and pantsuits, at times softened with drapes and bows, at others sharpened with metallic or mirrored detailing.
“We looked a little bit at Hollywood, the elements of a Hollywood wardrobe, like drapery, tulle, sparkly embroidery, and we twisted everything,” Rolf Snoeren said backstage after the spring summer ready-to-wear show.
So tulle was used on a trenchcoat, embroidery was made of mirror “to make it look very sharp and edgy” and drapery was used for daywear, like on dresses wound sideways around the body, or slinky pantsuits of apricot
or lilac.
“Everything is not quite what it seems,” smiled Snoeren.
Like a series of creations in tight curly fur, like a poodle’s coat, in reality made from hundreds of tiny bunched tulle roses, fashioned into a long skirt or a bolero-like little jacket.
“We wanted something very glamorous but at the same time very clean and graphic,” said Snoering’s design partner Viktor Horsting, with on the one hand sharp black, white and silver — and the other a dreamy pastel palette.
Mirrors cropped up everywhere, on a chunky belt, or in giant roses — a house symbol — embroidered on a white skirt.
“Next year is our 20th anniversary, so we are in a reflective mood,” offered Snoering by way of explanation.
Earlier the Japanese designer Tsumori Chisato rocked the catwalk with a playful spring line, shot through with explosive colour and quirky, handcrafted prints.
Chisato livened up slim pants, pantsuits or tops with a signature print of cartoon daisies on a blue background.
Other prints were like stylised Japanese landscapes, one signed by Chisato on a wide leather belt cinching a fine-knit long skirt and vest top.
Fluo patterned dresses were either long and swishy, or daringly short, while bright-coloured swimwear was cut perilously low at the neck. AFP
